Established in 1836, the Marzotto company affiliates with many prestigious textile manufacturers in Italy. This well-established historic company partnered with Teijin Frontier in the spring-summer season of 2021 to release Marzotto with SOLOTEX, a textile combining tradition and innovation by blending SOLOTEX® with Marzotto’s textiles.
Using Marzotto with SOLOTEX took three years to complete if the preparation period is included, and famous brands created their own items. Those items are sold in stores in Ginza and Marunouchi as “Be ginza,” and they are also featured in the magazine Begin.
We welcome Mr. Yuji Miyazaki at Abahouse International, who works as a buyer and MD for the brand Designworks, which integrates British classics with high fashion; Mr. Toru Ishida, who is the buyer of men’s items for Tatras Concept Store, which is famous for items combining functionality with beauty, including dawn jackets; and Mr. Shigeru Nakano of Teijin Frontier, who is engaged in textile development together with Teimen Ginza, which proposes new traditional fashion. We will talk about the items made of Marzotto with SOLOTEX tailored by those brands with knowledge of high-quality textiles.
■Mr. Yuji Miyazaki of Designworks (hereinafter referred to as DW Miyazaki)
We joined this project for special orders for Colony Clothing, the brand we have done business with since the first season. Mr. Takada, the creative director of the brand offered us collaboration using the fabric called Marzotto with SOLOTEX.
Each of Marzotto and SOLOTEX® is a completely different material offering different properties, but both have received a good response from customers. I was purely interested in what would happen if the functionality of SOLOTEX® were added to the classical Marzotto. When I actually picked the fabric up, I found it to have a silky texture and moderate stretch.
■Mr. Toru Ishida of Tatras Concept Store (hereinafter referred to as TCS Ishida)
The Tatras Concept Store placed a special order to Rainmaker, a brand in Kyoto. The representative Mr. Watanabe informed us of that project.
To tell the truth, the select brands of the Tatras Concept Store did not use classical textiles like Marzotto very often, which made us think that it was a novel and very interesting project. Because I had the impression that SOLOTEX® was a stretchy material, I was very interested in how the traditional wool of Marzotto would combined with the synthetic material. When I actually saw it, I felt deceived but in a good sense because the fabric had a textural beauty and moderate stretch.
■DW Miyazaki
When we had a shop at 1-chome Ginza in the past, I had the impression that there were many customers who had the old values of Ginza saying, “A suit for the fall-winter season should be made of 100% wool.” After we moved to 6-chome Ginza, I feel the customers who want not only fashion but also comfort have increased. We think one of the reasons is that we moved our location, but the customers seem to have increasingly tended to prefer comfortable items, which reflect the mood of the times.
I think Marzotto with SOLOTEX is a textile appropriate for the times because the level of comfort provided by SOLOTEX® is added to the textural properties and high quality provided by the internationally famous manufacturer Marzotto.
■TCS Ishida
The stores of the Tatras Concept Store sell various brands, and among them is a brand called H.I.P. by Solid, which pursues functionality and comfort.
We designed items for Marzotto with SOLOTEX as ones with the brand’s direction to which the core of classic fashion was added.
■DW Miyazaki
Because we selected micro-striped fabric typical of Colony Clothing to which we placed a special order, we thought a suit would be appropriate for the texture. The top is an oversize work jacket. We think the brand-specific details created based on the concept of jetsetters, such as having more pockets that it looks like, are convenient and effective while the jacket is more comfortable to wear than it looks.
We would like to propose this time as an item for inside the jacket is a mock neck sweater, which is an original item made of linen blended with SOLOTEX®. Accented with the neckline, mock neck sweaters are designed so that even adults can be chic. We think you can wear them from the spring to fall seasons since the fabric is thicker with moss stitch knitting.
■TSC Ishida
We designed this item by resizing the model, which is regularly popular in Rainmaker for the details of the Japanese kimono, so as to have a looser silhouette in line with the times. I think the no-collar jacket looks wonderful in the lustrous black of Marzotto with SOLOTEX and offers a chic look slightly in mode. The pants are high-waisted with a trendy wide silhouette and accented by the lower position of the adjuster.
The cut and sewn shirt under the jacket has a smooth texture because Superior Pima cotton blended with SOLOTEX® is used. Since this material provides great shape retention, the shirt was designed as an oversize one with a round-cut hem on the assumption that the hem would be tucked into the bottoms, but it may also look nice worn with the hem outside.
■Mr. Shigeru Nakano of Teijin Frontier (hereinafter referred to as TF Nakano)
Last of all, let me introduce Riccardo Metha handled by Teimen Ginza. The company started as a textile factory in Italy in 1978 and launched its own brand in 2002. The items for this project use two types of Marzotto with SOLOTEX, that is, glen check in dark navy and a London stripe.
This Italian brand is popular for its pants, so we created fairly wide knee-length shorts and wide pants offered in two types with different patterns. You can wear them in a relaxed way even without a belt.
These tops were tailored as a modification of a shacket while the details of the pockets were designed in an adult style. They may match T-shirts or band collar shirts.
■DW Miyazaki
I thought it interesting to combine a coordinate with innerwear to pursue a total coordinated look. In addition, Marzotto with SOLOTEX was simply a very nice textile. It is very useful for items between formal dress and casual wear, which means that the apparel may be applicable to formal situations to some extent, so it may be better if more patterns and colors were available.
Though SOLOTEX® tends to draw attention for its stretchiness and shape retention, once again, I feel that its lustrous appearance is very good.
■TCS Ishida
We have not offered textiles like Marzotto with SOLOTEX very often in our shops before. Using it for this project, we were attracted to it; at the same time, we wondered what other variations we could create with this classical textile other than jackets and pants.
■TF Nakano
This material is suitable for CPO jackets and underwear items worn close to the skin. With the cooperation of each brand in this project, we received appreciation; at the same time, we discovered challenges to be overcome. In the future, we would like to develop washable Marzotto with SOLOTEX and one with greater stretch with the appearance retained. Please keep your eyes on us.