2020.01.09 Thu

The patterns and sewing tried by Mr. Koji Norihide of Haversack and the potential of the material

Haversack is a brand with many enthusiastic fans of its vintage styles based on military wear, workwear, and tailored clothing, as well as its unique cutting. This brand has offered bold items using SOLOTEX® since the spring-summer season of 2019. We asked the designer Mr. Koji Norihide about the response they received.


Haversack had a strong brand image of focusing on vintage details, so honestly, we were surprised to hear that the brand adopted SOLOTEX®. How did you decide on that?

Indeed, we almost always used natural materials in the past and had not considered the use of other fibers so much. However, when Teijin introduced us to SOLOTEX®, we thought that the synthetic fibers had become quite advanced. In addition, we felt that users were seeking easy-care and highly functional items. So, we began to use SOLOTEX® in the spring-summer season of 2019, and this spring-summer season is the third consecutive season that we will use the material.


The key was that the person in charge had a fine understanding of your brand, is that correct?

Exactly. We deal with textile manufacturers on a long clock, so we do not have connections with many. SOLOTEX® was a material that was completely different from material that we had already handled and could be differentiated in terms of functionality, so we considered using it.

How did your old fans react?

We were afraid of their reactions at first, but we gained a good reputation for the wool-like, washable loafer jacket released last season from many users who reported that a light jacket like this was good because it was comfortable to wear and washable. We realized that there was demand for this material.

In order to fit the items to the brand image, did you have a trial and error period?

The heat-sealed polo coat we produced for the first time was made by rounded cutting, so we had a pretty hard time with it. The patterns of the heat-sealed soutien collar coat, which was offered in the spring-summer season of 2020, was made with straight lines while retaining the classic Haversack image. Grommets should be used for the openings for ventilation, however, only laser-cutting was used to achieve a lightweight finish, and the heat-sealed part was reduced as much as possible to enlarge the openings for better ventilation. Honestly, I had thought this would be technically difficult, but I was surprised because it was made more beautifully that I had expected. I can say this is a modern soutien collar coat that is lightweight and offers protection from rain and wind, as well as superior ventilation.

Did you create this in tandem with Teijin?

The heat-sealing, as well as the manufacturing of the material, is implemented at the factories designated by Teijin Frontier, and we learned a lot from them like, “It’s amazing that such a thing is possible.” Since some techniques were required for the heat-sealing work, very few craftsmen who could do it were available. The seams were heat-sealed so flatly that it feels like a seamless texture, and they had enough strength but no seam allowance. This experience reawakened the realization that textiles, patterns, and tailoring methods must be matched, which was very important. We do not basically use polyurethane because its durability is questionable. But SOLOTEX® is less prone to degradation even in Japan, where it is very humid, and offers moisture permeability. In addition, the material is water-repellent despite the appearance of a natural material that stretches. (Note)

Does the introduction of the new techniques have an effect on design?

As for the ventilation of this coat, I can say it is the result of the techniques of laser-cutting and heat-sealing. We also launched military cargo pants as items made of the same stretch material, and they are not only easy to move in because of the natural stretchiness but also stylish due to the rather firm texture despite the cotton-like appearance. Puckered seams and drawstring hems are intentionally adopted in order to add a casual look and feel. Actually, I have not put on stretchy pants so often before, but once I created these pants, I realized they are really comfortable and am now happy about its less proneness to degradation.

What items will you release in the future?

For the fall-winter season of 2020, we will release a three-way outer garment that combines a short parka over a standup collar coat using an outer material with 360° stretchiness and windbreak performance purposefully as a lining material. The outer material for this parka features the beautiful contrast of the elegant shine and the matte texture. In addition, we will release items using wool-like SOLOTEX®. I think the designs of men’s wear may remain almost the same even if times change, but mixing new techniques with established ones as a brand would lead to the development of new items that reflect now. And it is a novel thing to me.


(Note) For Haversack’s items for the spring-summer season of 2020, a water-repellant and permeable fabric woven in an ingenious way is used.